Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Beginnings...

Here I stand, in the beginning of it all.

In August 2013, my mother, son and I took a short trip to the Hawaiian Island of Mau'i. It is an island of its own culture, flavor, and lifestyle. It is commonly referred to as The Valley Isle, as on either side of its bustling financial center of Kahului are two volcanos. To the West lies the older of the two volcanic craters: Mauna Kahalawai. Although it has been severely eroded over the eons of time, its timeless beauty can be seen by its crags, lush green hiking trails, and stunning cliffs. In the East lies the infamous Haleakala- House of the Sun. Volcanic creators throughout the Hawaiian Islands are considered sacred, as they were believed the house the gods. Only a small and specially fated individual could cross into the house of the gods. This belief still holds true throughout the islands- all mountains are of sacred power and house that power from a Source. As such it must be treated with respect. 

The island's name of Mau'i comes from the god, Mau'i in Hawaiian mythology (if that's what we're calling it). Mau'i has been seen throughout Hawaiian stories and legends but his known for his ability to slow the sun down, creating longer days. In a nutshell, his mother, Hina, had been complaining that the days were too short and it did not allow her to complete her work. The sun would fly across the sky in such haste that nothing could be done. Mau'i climbed to the top of Haleakala and lassoed the sun, harnessing its speed across the heavens. Mau'i is also known for his fish hook and in astronomy is known as Scorpius in the West. Mau'i island was home to the great ali'i chiefs Kahekili I, II, and III, most sacred high chiefs Keopuolani,  as well as the high chiefess Kekuipoiwa I, aunt to Kekuipoiwa II mother to Kamehameha Nui. So why all this very basic, watered down history?

Well, it all comes to Haleki'i Pihana Heiaus in Wailuku, Mau'i. This ancient Hawaiian site was what started everything. In our August 2013 trip, in an effort to kill time before our return flight to Honolulu, I desired to see something cultural. Mau'i island was always a lack-luster island in my eyes  and it never really had anything special about it. But I was determined to still learn about the history of all the islands and in doing so, uncovering a piece of my own Hawaiian identity.

Haleki'i Pihana Heiau is located somewhere along the highway in Hawaiian Homestead lands. It was not well marked, the state marker was (and IS) worn by the elements, and the closed locked yellow gate was forbodeing at best. In short, it wasn't very inviting. My mother, driven by some internal need, encouraged me to not give up. So, out of the car we went and made our trek up the ill-kept paved road that wrapped to a ghost town parking lot. Three isolated signs gave basic descriptions of the heiau itself and then more uphill walking. 

My mother was moved by the site: the views of Wai'ehu, Waihe'e and Wailuku beaches, from towering Haleakala in the east, and the humbling 'Iao Valley behind us. She felt a powerful spiritual connection to the 'aina never seen in a haole before. I wasn't convinced. I didn't "feel" anything - no connection, no kuleana calling, nothing. However, I paid my respects and treated the site with the utmost reverence and dignity. I taught my young son about how to respect the spirits of the rocks, the trees, the animals, and the uhane that may live there.

As I began to look around the site, I began to wonder about its ability to survive. Haleki'i Pihana heiau are the oldest on Mau'i island believed to be built by the menehune and expanded upon as alibi came into power. The site is massive. Its ridiculously large. It sits on 10 acres of sand dunes that look deep into the bay and valley. It's foremost structure on the right side, Haleki'i, or House of Images was were the gods were placed when the Hawaiians operated under the kapu system before monotheism arrived in the islands. It was believed that the gods could use these images to step into when called upon. Along the eastern side of the site lie ruins of what look like chambers: rooms that were anywhere from 10x10 feet with walls made from smooth stones from the 'Iao Stream. It gave the ali'i perfect viewing on any oncoming attack. 

At the top of the sand dune, in the northern most part of the 10 acres, lies Pihana-a-ka-lani: roughly gathering place of the supernatural beings. This was a sacrificial temple where human sacrifices were made to ensure success in war. The war god, Ku, was the most feared and revered god of the kapu system. It is well known that Kamehameha Nui took this god as his own personal god. It is believed that is one reason why Kamehameha was so successful in conquering and uniting all the Hawaiian Islands under one Mo'i.

The sites were severely neglected. Using the word neglected isn't even the correct word. While the state of Hawaii's Department of Land and Natural Resources has "control" over the site, it was painfully obvious that the State Department and its locals did not care about the meaning of this site. I looked at this site and thought, "where will it be in 15 years? In 30? Will my grandchildren be able to see it? To understand its importance in the overarching history of the Hawaiian people?" So many heaius were destroyed when the kapu system was abolished and its amazing that this immense structure has survived the test of Time. After reflecting, my answer was "Probably not." My mother felt the same way. She was utterly disgusted at the beer bottles, buckets, trash, slippahs, broken signs, lack of trash cans, and general disrepair of the site. 

It was in that moment, in a car ride to the airport that the idea of "Hu'e I Na Pohaku Makamae" was born.

This blog will be dedicated to the company's progress of its one year adoption of Haleki'i Pihana Heiau. The blog promises to deliver accurate personal experiences of what is seen, felt, and done at the site. It will contain photos from our work so that the public understands the importance of this site and its need for continued care. 

Photo Copyright; Danielle Grauman, 2013

Collage of our first visit in August 2013. Top left: Rooms overlooking Wailuku; Middle Left: Haleki'i; Bottom left: Me, explaining to my son about respecting every portion of the land. Right: Mom and son examining Pihana Heiau marker.







No comments:

Post a Comment